Laser Hiking Straps
For recreational sailing any of our hiking straps would be a good choice as you will not generally be straight leg hiking for long durations - check out any of our wider straps for comfort. For racing consider a strap with a grip-strip sewn to the underside. These textured rubber-like materials will help prevent your boot from slipping while hiking. The Zhik system actually mates (locks) with the similar material that is located on the top of their hiking boots for even more secure hiking.
Keep your legs in shape off the water with a hiking bench. They simulate hiking on a Laser in all positions (drop or straight leg hiking). Use them at home while you watch TV or read a book. If you attach a short piece of mainsheet sized rope with some doubled up (looped) ¼” shock cord to each front corner, you can even work (pump) your arms while hiking.
For minor dings and scratches we offer Laser gelcoat. If you have never worked with gel coat remember that you need to add liquid hardener (the catalyst) to it in order for it to ‘go-off’ (harden). The ratio is generally 1 or 2% hardener to gelcoat. Also, gel coat does not harden fully in the presents of oxygen, so once applied you will need to cover it plastic film or wax paper until it has cured. Then it will be hard enough to sand.
Mast Step Repair Kit
Over the years a mast step may detach from the hull or be damaged from water in the tube that has frozen and expanded. In these cases the tube is destroyed and the deck around it is damaged (and the mast has fallen). If you Laser’s mast step has failed this repair kit will solve the problem. West System epoxy is generally the best epoxy to use when dong the installation. Read the instructions (link to these in the product description) carefully before beginning work.
Over the years the manufacture of the Lasers has changed the drain plug they use multiple times. If you can identify the plug type you have as one of the two RWO plugs, you can simply order a replacement bung only. If not, choose a complete assembly and replace what you currently have. Be sure to use silicon sealant when installing. As some times drain plugs are ‘borrowed’, order a spare as a back up.
Originally Lasers came with plastic traveler fairleads. Due to the loads placed on them when racing, these sometimes failed and caused deck damage when they did. New Lasers now come with aluminum traveler fairleads. They are installed with #10 self-tapping pan head screws and require a plastic screw cap for the outside screw to tap into (goes gust under the gunwale lip). At the aluminum is abrasive to your traveler line, you may want to wet sand the area the traveler line comes in contact with using some 600 or 800 grit wet/dry sand paper.
These can be installed centered on either side of your dagger board on the flat slated surface. They provide a good way to ‘air’ your Laser hull during storage to allow moisture to escape. They also provide a great way to store small items (phone, keys, wallet, lunch) while sailing if you use an optional storage bag (cat bag, fat bags fit Viking brand ports; barnie bags fit RWO ports). There is also the hard plastic Bottleport that works with Viking inspections ports to hold a water bottle while sailing. Inspections ports for the Laser should be 5” diameter opening (5-1/2” cut out generally).
Laser Auto Bailers
These are optional if you are using your boat for only recreational sailing. In this case the simple rubber cockpit drain plug may be used. When racing you will want to use an auto bailer to reduce hull drag though the water and efficiently drain the cockpit. Replacement parts are available including: 0-rings, bailer chutes and rubber bungs. For better performance (opening and closing) upgrade from rubber 0-rings to metal bailer springs.
These are used for the traveler and originally for the Cunningham and outhaul (prior to racing upgrades). While years ago these were black plastic and tended to wear out (plastic teeth wore away), in all cases now the aluminum Clamcleat MK1 Racing Junior (in either black anodized or silver coated) is be used. Attach to the boom using #64 stainless steel pop rivets. Attach to the deck with #10 pan head 1-1/2” stainless steel self-tapping screws.
Laser Cockpit Grab Rails
These are installed using stainless steel #10 pan head self-tapping screws that are 1-1/2” long (available in 10 packs) and grab rail plugs (available in 10 packs) that are inserted in the cockpit wall and into which the screws are driven (5 screws and 5 plugs per rail).